Follow the steps of the first British climbing pioneers on Dolomites!
Climb Dolomites on the normal routes of the great peaks is a unique experience! Every rock climber with a basic experience of indoor climbing can climb these amazing regular routes. With the actual rock climbing standards, these climbing routes of the Dolomites are considered easy. In any case they need a good physical condition because are long climbs with heavy approaches and complex return.
The pioneers of the climbing in the Dolomites was genial mountaineers! Sometime they had studied these routes in many years of observations and tentatives. Many of these climbs of the Dolomites are authentic “labyrinths of rocks” into the big walls.
Today we can climb these “museums of climbing” with the same passion of the first climbers of the Dolomites.
Climb Dolomites on the normal routes – Step 1: the basic info
READ THE INFORMATION ON THE RIGHT BAR
Read the basic information present in the right column of this webpage, before to plan your travel in Italy and in the Dolomites. Then, don’t hesitate to ask me any other specific questions that you may have about the logistic or transfers, rental car, hotels, etc….. Climb in dolomites on the normal routes, need a good logistical information phase.
Climb Dolomites on the normal routes – Step 2: choose your program
The following regular climbing routes are a basic proposals to begin the organisation of your customised program to climb in dolomites on the normal routes.
Climb Dolomites: Cristallo d’Ampezzo (3221 m.)
The Cristallo d’Ampezzo is a typical ascension of the pioneer era. It’s a very complicated and labyrinthic climbing of the Dolomites along the enormous south side of this mountain. The technical grade is 2/3 of the classical alpine scale. The total vertical gain, that we need climb obligatory in one single day, is 1600 meters. So you need have a good basic physical condition for the long and steep approach, the long climbing and the long return on the same way.
In any case is great climbing day!
Climb Dolomites: Sassolungo – Langkofel (3181 m.)
The normal route of the Sassolungo – Langkofel in the central Dolomites is one of the most complex regular routes of the big peaks. A continue climbing on exposed ledges, with many climbing passages is a constant of this great historical rock climbing route of the Dolomites. 4 hours of climbing up and the same time to climb down with many rappelling give at this climbing day a complete configuration of a great adventure! On the top of the peak is located a small “bivouac” (metallic shelter of 6 beds). If you like take great photos of sunset, is possible overnight here and then descend the day after… why not?
Ortles – Ortler (3909 m.)
The Ortles is the most elevated peak of the oriental Alps (3905 m.). His regular route is a very complicated climb: first part on the rocks and then along a glacier sometime steep. This route is the most popular ascension of the peak. In alternative the “Via dei Meranesi route” named “Meranerweg” is a good alternative for expert hikers. This second route is prevalent on the rock (grade 2-3) on the first infinite part… then on the upper glacier at the top. We need two days to climb the vertical step of 2350 meters of the NW side of the Ortles, with one outdoor bivouac at the top of the crest, that give at this route an old pioneeristic style… and a great satisfaction!
Climb Dolomites: Tribulaun (3079 m.)
The Tribulaun is the “Matterhorn of the oriental Alps”. A pointed peak in an isolated area of the crest of the border between Italy and Austria. The regular route of this peak is the most difficult normal routes of the Dolomites. A first part of typical labyrinthic scrambling, follow a sequence of rock climbing pitches of grade 3rd, all in an ambient very impressive, wild and…. steep. This rock climbing of the Dolomites is not a classical climb, very few mountaineers climb this route in the summer, so we have the authentic occasion to taste the forgotten old Dolomites with a great adventure of two days.
Download the topos and photos of this climb to complete your informative phase, and then don’t hesitate to contact me for more info.
Download the map of the Tribulaun normal route area
Download the photo of the climb of the Tribulaun normal route
Download the design of the ascent of the normal route Tribulaun
Similaun (3607 m.)
The normal route of the Similaun peak is the easier of this selection. On the first day we go with a long approach path at the Similaun refugio. The second day we climb the glacier to the peak and go back on the same way. This trek is particularly suggested for people at first experience on the glaciers, who wish to try with a not too heavy tour. In September of 1991, not to distant from the refugio Similaun, along the crest of the border of Austria, was found the “ice man”, the famous mummy of the prehistorical hunter that today you can visit at the dedicated museum in Bolzano. The great panoramas are a constant of this ascension!
Palla Bianca – Weisskugel (3738 m.)
The peak of the Palla Bianca – Weisskugel (translation of the name: White ball…) is the second highest mount of the South Tyrol. The particularity of this great mountain with large glaciers is that is near the junction of the triple border of: Switzerland, Italy, Austria. A nice climbing in a not complex glacier, with a final crest of rock very panoramic. This peak complete the triad of the highest peaks of South Tyrol.
More programs of rock climbing on the Dolomites
Climbing Dolomites: program for beginners
Are you bored to climbing into a indoor gym? Rock climbing in the Dolomites is your next target for your first climbing holidays!