The best idea to program your rock climbing holiday in the Dolomites
The climbing in Dolomites is a unforgettable experience for all! If you are a rock climbing indoor enthusiast and if you have a basic experience of rock climbing courses, this is the best proposal for your next climbing holiday in the Dolomites.
Every practitioner of rock climbing indoor have a good physical basis and technical experience to pass at the outdoor rock climbing and climbing in dolomites is sure the best idea. After long winter time with many “boring days” in indoor rock climbing it’s time to change!
A course of rock climbing in Dolomites during your holiday in Italy is the best choose to begin your outdoor climbing activity! Climb the alpine routes of the Dolomites is a difficult art that need a good training directly “on the action field”.
Combine some days dedicated at a rock climbing course plus some climbing routes in the Dolomites, is a unique experience that will give at your holiday a special finalized target.
I organize climbing courses in different areas of the Dolomites, based at your specific requirements of level and number of days.
Basically: from one day to a full week we can find a appropriate solution for your first experience on rock climbing in the Dolomites. Follow these two steps to finalize at best your rock climbing holiday in the Dolomites:
Climbing Dolomites – Step 1: the basic info
READ THE INFORMATION ON THE RIGHT BAR
If you are looking to climbing in Dolomites, you need have good organizative information. Read the basic information present in the right column of this webpage, before to plan your travel in Italy and in the Dolomites. Then, don’t hesitate to ask me any other specific questions that you may have about the logistic or transfers, rental car, hotels, etc…..
Climbing Dolomites – Step 2: choose your program
The following program is a basic idea to begin the organization of your customized program:
DAY 1 Climbing Dolomites: the basis of technic
We begin at the famous rock blocks area of the “Città dei Sassi” (city of rock blocks) at the Sella Pass. A perfect place where can try, in total safety, the delicate manouvres of rappelling, technic of belays, and others aspects of the climbing on the big walls, etc…. This day is a preparative phase for the multi-pitches routes of the next days!
DAY 2 Climbing Dolomites: the Sella Towers
The second day we climb one of the many climbing routes of the three Sella Towers. If you prefer a exposed ridge: the Steger route (8 pitches) is perfect! In alternative with the same grade (V°) aprox 5.5/5.6 of the American scale (not Yosemite grades…) we can climb the Trenker route (7 pitches), a enormous open book on the south wall of the First Sella Tower. Don’t worry….. on the same wall there are easier and more difficult routes, as you prefer….
Every route arrive on the top of the First Sella Tower, and from here we can rappel back to the base or continue to the Second Sella along easier routes of 4 pitches to conclude a “great rock climbing day” on the alpine routes.
DAY 3 Climbing Dolomites: the Vajolet Towers
This is the most famous group of towers of the Dolomites! In first line from left to right are the Delago tower, the Stabeler tower and the Winkler tower. The left side of the Delago tower have 750 meters of total vertical wall in view of my town Bolzano. So If we climb the famous Piaz Aretè on the second belay we rest in small belay place with 350 m of overhanging under of our foots…. But don’t worry… this route in total is about 200 meters long in 6 pitches. If we overnighting at the refugio Re Alberto we can climb the three towers in only one day with a concatenation of three climbing routes.
DAY 4 Climbing Dolomites: the Great Pordoi peak
The Piaz aretè is extremely logical climbing route of the Dolomites, along the big south edge of the Sass Pordoi. It’s a original Piaz route, of the most famous climbing pioneer of the central Dolomites. In about 12 pitches we can climb this complex aretè with a genial climbing line that we can understand only if we climb this classical route of the Dolomites. The descend with the Sass Pordoi cableway is the happy end of this climbing day!
DAY 5 Climbing Dolomites: the Sass de Stria and Falzarego
This climbing route of the Dolomites is a heroic climb! It was climbed in first ascension during the first world war from a selected patrol of “Alpini” (Italian mountain troops) to catch the strategic control of the top of the Sass da Stria at the Austrian troops. Today we can climb this route without rifles and hand grenades for pure fun…. but our memory “flight” to these terrible histories of a crazy war. The way back is a walking along the constant Austrian trench, from the top to the base.
DAY 6 Climbing Dolomites: Spigolo Giallo Lavaredo
The three peaks of Lavaredo, known as “Drei Zinnen” are one of the most impressive groups of dolomite mountains. Three obelisks of the nature! The Spigolo Giallo (Yellow Aretè) is the most classical climbing route of this area.
It’s not properly a “easy route”…. A good VI alpine grade is the constant for this climb in total exposition. A great end for a full climbing week!
There are many and large climbing possibilities, to organize at better your climbing holidays in the Dolomites. You can contact me to begin the discussion about your “tailor made” program.
Informations and guidebooks
I have wrote 4 climbing guides about the Dolomites, and one about ski mountaineering in Tyrol. But my editions are only in italian and german language… as 99% of the climbing information of the Dolomites…..
These are my books:
In english language there are lot of info on-line, but many of these are partial, approximate or incomplete. Available in amazon.uk.com are some guidebooks that I suggest you to buy, this is the best selection:
Annette Kohler and Norbert Memmel
Rother Editor – Munich
This guidebook have the best selection of classic climbs of the Dolomites. A good range of grades of “historical climbs” of the dolomites with clear topos easy to read and understand.
Rock Fax Editor
The new generation of “all in one” guidebook, a good selection of traditional and new climbs in perfect British style.
More programs of rock climbing on the Dolomites
Regular routes of the Dolomites big peaks
The regular routes of the main peaks of the Dolomites are great adventures, perfect for every climber.